Finding that perfect wedding suit: Q & A with clothier Scott Puncher

Finding that perfect wedding suit: Q & A with clothier Scott Puncher

Paul Puncher is your best source for designer wedding suits. Our impeccable collection of men’s ready made suits, from the world’s foremost European designers, will speak to your unique style and character, elevating the sophistication of your wedding day.

Why buy a suit instead of a tuxedo?

Buying a quality, well-tailored suit is an investment. It can be worn over and over again to a variety of future functions i.e., other weddings, funerals, special occasions. A tuxedo is a more formal garment by nature, and rarely can be used in future functions, unlike a suit. The investment in a good suit, because of this reusable feature, is much more valuable than a tuxedo, which is similar cost to purchase, and rarely worn in future.

What suit brands do you recommend for a wedding?

The suit brands I recommend are determined after a detailed discussion with the client during the initial consultation. Once the information has been gathered from the client, I discover/determine what the client’s approximate budget is. This is critical in determining what particular brands I would recommend, as we have a broad range of suit prices.  Some clients are price sensitive, so I guide them accordingly to some of our opening price brands. Other clients that are less price conscious, I review our higher priced imported Italian brands.

Should I buy a summer suit or a fall suit?

There are 3 criteria I use for seasonal wearability (i.e., summer versus fall).

  1. If it is a summer wedding (i.e., between June – September), the client could choose a suit fabric that is lighter in weight, lighter in colour, or both light in colour and weight of fabric…example being light grey or light tan.
  2. A fall/winter wedding demands a suit that is obviously darker in colour, darker in weight of fabric, or both i.e., darker blue, darker grey, darker earth tones like brown (rare) or black. This season is typically from October – March.
  3. The third option that is often chosen, is to buy an “all season” suit that can be worn year-round. This provides the most value for client because the suit can typically be worn 12 months of the year to all functions. These suits are made of medium weight fabrics that are not too light for winter and not too heavy for summer. They typically are in mid to dark tones, most being in the blue/ grey/ black tones.

Vest or no vest?

A vest tends to add a more formal or sartorial/ elegant vibe to a wedding suit. I personally love/ prefer vested suits, especially if the wedding has a more traditional formal theme i.e. a larger venue, with the bride wearing a more elegant, elaborate gown, as opposed to a more casual setting with a smaller group, less formal etc. The vest provides an additional “look” for the groom i.e. the vest provides the groom with an elegant, polished, more finished look when he removes his suit jacket at some point (which most groom’s eventually do as the reception goes on.

What about my groomsmen?

Our wedding suit programs allow us to efficiently and effectively handle both the groom’s and the entire wedding party’s wardrobe needs. The determination of whether we handle the groomsmen tends to be determined by price/ budget i.e., does the wedding party want to invest in purchasing a higher quality suit which is more costly, versus renting a suit or buying a lower quality and less expensive suit. That is the primary deciding factor in this debate.

Ties – to wear of not?

Choice of whether a groom wants to wear a tie or not is first issue. Majority of groom’s wearing suit want to “properly” to complete the elegant vibe of a suit by wearing a tie. There are some grooms who don’t want to wear a tie because their wedding theme isn’t as formal or traditional, so they wear no tie and maybe a pocket square as an accessory. Actual tie choice for those wearing ties, is obviously based on or dictated by colour of suit. Solid ties tend to be more popular as they give a more formal look, as opposed to vibrant patterns, which tend to be flashier and less formal.


What fit is in style?

The most popular style right now are suits that feature a 2-button, single breasted jacket with side vents at back. These jackets have a more fitted, slimmer cut and are shorter in length. Pants are flat front (no pleats) with a slimmer cut leg with narrow bottoms.

What is the most popular colour?

The majority of our wedding suits are obviously in the core traditional colours of black, navy and grey. Among those colours, there has been a push towards the brighter or more vibrant navy-blue tones, as opposed to the darker midnight blue. Also, we have seen demand for the mid to lighter tones of grey, stealing some of the traditional black and charcoal suit business. The bulk of suits purchased are navy, grey and black.

How many fittings?

Typically, we do 2 fittings. We do the initial first fitting, where the suit is marked for the required tailoring adjustments. We then do a second fitting or try-on after these initial tailoring adjustments are complete to make sure they were done properly and that the suit fits perfectly. If an additional adjustment is needed, we do it during second fitting, but this is rarely needed.

How far ahead should I order a wedding suit?

In order to have most effective result, enjoyable process, obviously allowing more time is better than less. If a client can purchase his wedding wardrobe “off the rack” from in stock, this can be turned around fairly quickly (i.e. a month or less). But if there is a particular colour, pattern or style that is not available in stock and has to be ordered in, minimum 8 weeks is required. Most of our custom wedding clients have the initial consultation 4 – 6 months in advance. This allows for less for a less stressful process than last minute approach and allows for most effective results.

How do I get started?

To start the process, contact us to book a wedding consultation.

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A Guide To Common Summer Wedding Dress Codes for Men

A Guide To Common Summer Wedding Dress Codes for Men

When you receive an invitation to a summer wedding (or maybe a few wedding invitations this summer), the first thing you think is I must remember to RSVP! Then comes What do I wear to this wedding? Here are a few clues you can use to pick your summer wedding suit, guidelines based on the type of wedding you’re going to attend and common summer wedding dress codes for men.

First, take a look at the invitation to see if it mentions a dress code. If no dress code is disclosed, look up the venue and get a feel for it (i.e. will the wedding take place in an updated barn or in a ballroom?) The venue will also help you determine which fabrics you should go with for your suit. If the wedding is going to take place outside in a sunny courtyard, you may want to consider lighter fabrics for your suit and shirt, while an indoor wedding may have the AC blasting, giving you more options for thicker fabrics.

Second, determine what type of wedding you’re RSVPing to. Here’s a summer suit guide by wedding type.

What To Wear To A Summer Wedding


The Traditional Wedding

Morning or formal day dress is the pre-6pm equivalent of white tie, and not something that you can mess with. The non-negotiables are: a black or grey morning coat with tails, a light-coloured waistcoat, a white or light-coloured shirt with a turn-down collar and double cuffs with cufflinks, a tie or cravat, grey or grey-and-black-striped trousers, and black shoes. A black or grey top hat is optional, outside of the royal enclosure at Ascot. A grey topper is, amusingly, considered ‘less formal’.

“Ties are preferred,” says etiquette guide Debrett’s, with no explanation necessary but a quick Google search to see the alternative: cravat, matching pocket square and beige waistcoat horror shows. “I prefer a black herringbone morning coat with a dogtooth trouser, paired with a double-breasted pink waistcoat,” says Oliver Spencer, who when not designing his eponymous fashion label is the founder and creative director of Favourbrook occasionwear.

Whatever you do, don’t put a foot wrong. “It’s key not to wear brogues: opt for Oxfords instead,” adds Spencer, who also insists on an off-white or sky-blue shirt.

The Modern City Wedding

Many weddings fall into the vague category of requiring ‘a suit’. If the ceremony’s in the city though, then it’ll likely be on the slicker end of the spectrum. ‘No brown in town’ might no longer be binding, but the sentiment lingers. “To keep things smart, opt for a dark suit, but you can spice things up with your tie and handkerchief,” says Spencer. (Coordinate them, by all means, but never exactly match them – which is naff.)

“Either way, the guiding principle is to not look like you came from work,” says Simon Holden, senior menswear designer at John Lewis. In the case of a three-piece, a waistcoat also helps you look vaguely put together when the jackets inevitably come off later in the evening, plus covers sweat. A reason to stick with a safer and smarter white shirt as opposed to perspiration-showing pastels.

Silhouette-wise, double-breasted is another viable alternative to your everyday two-piece, as is switching up the fabric from ubiquitous wool to something snazzier like mohair or less stuffy like linen, depending on the desired vibe. And temperature.

The Black Tie Wedding

AKA dinner suits (or jackets), tuxedos or cravate noire, black tie is less formal than white tie, in the same way that a grey top hat is less formal than a black one. 

Your checklist: a dinner suit with contrast lapels in a fabric like grosgrain or silk and trousers with braiding down the leg (yes, even if the invitation just says ‘jackets’); a white dress shirt with turn-down collar (wing is for white tie), double cuffs and cufflinks, plus some kind of fancy front and often studs or concealed buttons; black shoes (Oxfords or other unadorned lace-ups). Oh, and a well-tied bow tie (not clip-on).

“Avoid wearing black and opt for midnight blue, which is far more interesting,” says Spencer. It’s also historically correct, and looks blacker under artificial light. The point of black tie is to create a uniform effect among the menfolk, but you can still subtly distinguish yourself through texture such as velvet, adds Spencer. Or just peacock in a cream dinner jacket, but note that if you’re not the groom, his feathers will be ruffled.

The Country Wedding

It’s possible to have a very formal rural wedding, of course. But generally speaking, you’re outside the city limits in more ways than one – and free to wear brown shoes with no fear of a dressing down. Maybe even brogues or Derbies rather than Oxfords.

“For a country wedding, there’s more scope to wear separates rather than a full suit,” says Holden. “However, don’t break the boundaries too much. Adhere to a smart jacket and trousers with a shirt and tie. You can incorporate a waistcoat that matches your jacket or trousers for an added element.” Just remember the venue isn’t Toad Hall.

You’ve also got leeway if not quite carte blanche to expand your palette beyond the conservative metropolitan standards of navy and grey. “In terms of colours, opt for warmer, more neutral tones with texture,” continues Holden. Mattified fabrics feel more casual and country-appropriate (and will stand up better to chunkier footwear), as do patterns like checks – not to mention florals.

The Wedding Abroad

It’s contingent on the country in question, but odds are it hasn’t been selected because there’s a high chance of rain. And unless the dress code is Hawaiian shirts, shorts and flip-flops, you’ll need to balance the requisite degree of formality with the risk of heatstroke.

“A linen suit is the perfect option for a hot wedding,” says Holden. That, in turn, conjures images of old-timey southern gentlemen. “A fitted jacket with tapered trousers in grey or blue will keep the look modern. You can also explore cotton suiting to keep you cool.” Don’t discount seersucker, especially in a block colour rather than Colonel Sanders stripes. An unlined jacket will allow air to circulate – and sweat to evaporate.

Your cotton or linen shirt should have a softer collar to match your less structured tailoring. Accessories-wise, nothing overly silky or shiny that will reflect the sun – linen is a good choice for ties and pocket squares too. Finally, loafers are a halfway house between Oxfords and sandals. A wedding isn’t the place to flip-flop, in any sense.

Read more.

Regardless of the wedding venue and dress code, we can suit you with the perfect summer wedding look. From summer menswear to formal designer suits, we’ll have you looking like the perfect wedding guest from head to toe (without upstaging the groom, of course). 

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