Suits Archives - Paul Puncher Clothiers

How Giorgio Armani Modernised Menswear

by Scott Puncher | Aug 12, 2019 | Men's Fashion

When it comes to men’s fashion, there are certain designers who have really made their mark. Giorgio Armani is one of them. The Italian designer has a rich history that led to the exceptional luxury menswear, suits, and shoes we know today; comfortable without compromising elegance.

Our Paul Puncher Showroom is your source for the latest Armani menswear in Waterloo. Visit us to find the latest Armani collection including Emporio Armani.

Keep reading for more about how Giorgio Armani modernised, redefined and, ultimately, transformed menswear.

How Giorgio Armani Redefined Menswear

source: therake.com

It’s impossible to overstate just what Armani did for menswear in the 1980s. One might just suggest that he sexed up men’s wardrobes early that decade in the same way Deep South blues sexed up rock and roll music half a century earlier. And the core of his strategic masterstroke was the frontier diving casualwear and formalwear.

Giorgio Armani wasn’t the first to see heavily structured clothes as inherently constricting – to note that their angular-linear silhouettes were dignified and imposing yet far from debonair and insouciant – and act on the problem. Frederick Scholte – mentor to Per Anderson of Anderson & Sheppard fame, and tailor to the Duke of Windsor – invented the British drape in order that clients might trade rigidity for fluidity, while around the 1930s, the most esteemed tailors of Naples – notably Rubinacci – began eliminating linings, canvasing and pads from their coats to create garments better suited to la dolce vita than a stiff appointment at the city’s Royal Palace.

But no one post-war has done more to transform male dress codes – and not just what men wear but, crucially, what they might be allowed to wear – than a then little-known Italian designer whose name now is among the most prestigious clothing brands in the world. Bolder colours were a big part of his revolt. Lighter fabrics including bouclé, flannel and crepe also played a huge role. The lowering of the buttons removed even more of the military sanctimony of traditional suiting. But it was those cleaner, more fluid lines that fuelled a kind of bloodless coup: one which didn’t so much tear the barriers down between formal and casual as expose the distinction as fictitious – chimerical, forced and entirely corrosive to post-war male elegance. In doing so he re-wrote the codes of masculinity forever.

“He has an incredible sensuality and wears every look so naturally, so he was a pleasure to dress,” Armani has said of dressing Richard Gere in what turned out to be his first of over 200 involvements with movie wardrobes, over which he’s made the link between cinematic costume and character inextricable. “I was motivated by the desire to modernise menswear – in the field of men’s clothing we were still tied to more or less the same clothes our fathers and grandfathers wore. I wanted to use softer fabrics and rethink the suit, getting rid of most of the linings and fillings. The unstructured result was a truly new look that preserved its precision while becoming more body-conscious and more comfortable.”

Other movies styled by Armani include The Untouchables, Christopher Nolan’s Batman trilogy and Martin Scorsese’s The Wolf of Wall Street, the latter in particular – think pronounced shoulders, oversized lapels, wool-blends, pinstripes, dark greys and V-shaped virility, as befitting of early ‘90s alpha males – showing his versatility when it comes to making on-screen attire contribute as much to character, era and narrative nuance as any script writer. But American Gigolo is the one that threw down a gauntlet. When it comes to sartorially relevant movies, it’s hard to think of one which looms larger in post-war history (Shaft, Blowup and Quadrophenia are all a little too niche to be deemed sartorially seminal, while 8 ½, Bullitt, Reservoir Dogs and Oceans 11 et al are all up there, but didn’t exactly dismantle and rebuild the fashion mores of a whole generation).

A Guide To Common Summer Wedding Dress Codes for Men

by Scott Puncher | Jul 4, 2019 | Men's Fashion

When you receive an invitation to a summer wedding (or maybe a few wedding invitations this summer), the first thing you think is I must remember to RSVP! Then comes What do I wear to this wedding? Here are a few clues you can use to pick your summer wedding suit, guidelines based on the type of wedding you’re going to attend and common summer wedding dress codes for men.

First, take a look at the invitation to see if it mentions a dress code. If no dress code is disclosed, look up the venue and get a feel for it (i.e. will the wedding take place in an updated barn or in a ballroom?) The venue will also help you determine which fabrics you should go with for your suit. If the wedding is going to take place outside in a sunny courtyard, you may want to consider lighter fabrics for your suit and shirt, while an indoor wedding may have the AC blasting, giving you more options for thicker fabrics.

Second, determine what type of wedding you’re RSVPing to. Here’s a summer suit guide by wedding type.

What To Wear To A Summer Wedding

source: fashionbeans.com

The Traditional Wedding

Morning or formal day dress is the pre-6pm equivalent of white tie, and not something that you can mess with. The non-negotiables are: a black or grey morning coat with tails, a light-coloured waistcoat, a white or light-coloured shirt with a turn-down collar and double cuffs with cufflinks, a tie or cravat, grey or grey-and-black-striped trousers, and black shoes. A black or grey top hat is optional, outside of the royal enclosure at Ascot. A grey topper is, amusingly, considered ‘less formal’.

“Ties are preferred,” says etiquette guide Debrett’s, with no explanation necessary but a quick Google search to see the alternative: cravat, matching pocket square and beige waistcoat horror shows. “I prefer a black herringbone morning coat with a dogtooth trouser, paired with a double-breasted pink waistcoat,” says Oliver Spencer, who when not designing his eponymous fashion label is the founder and creative director of Favourbrook occasionwear.

Whatever you do, don’t put a foot wrong. “It’s key not to wear brogues: opt for Oxfords instead,” adds Spencer, who also insists on an off-white or sky-blue shirt.

The Modern City Wedding

Many weddings fall into the vague category of requiring ‘a suit’. If the ceremony’s in the city though, then it’ll likely be on the slicker end of the spectrum. ‘No brown in town’ might no longer be binding, but the sentiment lingers. “To keep things smart, opt for a dark suit, but you can spice things up with your tie and handkerchief,” says Spencer. (Coordinate them, by all means, but never exactly match them – which is naff.)

“Either way, the guiding principle is to not look like you came from work,” says Simon Holden, senior menswear designer at John Lewis. In the case of a three-piece, a waistcoat also helps you look vaguely put together when the jackets inevitably come off later in the evening, plus covers sweat. A reason to stick with a safer and smarter white shirt as opposed to perspiration-showing pastels.

Silhouette-wise, double-breasted is another viable alternative to your everyday two-piece, as is switching up the fabric from ubiquitous wool to something snazzier like mohair or less stuffy like linen, depending on the desired vibe. And temperature.

The Black Tie Wedding

AKA dinner suits (or jackets), tuxedos or cravate noire, black tie is less formal than white tie, in the same way that a grey top hat is less formal than a black one.

Your checklist: a dinner suit with contrast lapels in a fabric like grosgrain or silk and trousers with braiding down the leg (yes, even if the invitation just says ‘jackets’); a white dress shirt with turn-down collar (wing is for white tie), double cuffs and cufflinks, plus some kind of fancy front and often studs or concealed buttons; black shoes (Oxfords or other unadorned lace-ups). Oh, and a well-tied bow tie (not clip-on).

“Avoid wearing black and opt for midnight blue, which is far more interesting,” says Spencer. It’s also historically correct, and looks blacker under artificial light. The point of black tie is to create a uniform effect among the menfolk, but you can still subtly distinguish yourself through texture such as velvet, adds Spencer. Or just peacock in a cream dinner jacket, but note that if you’re not the groom, his feathers will be ruffled.

The Country Wedding

It’s possible to have a very formal rural wedding, of course. But generally speaking, you’re outside the city limits in more ways than one – and free to wear brown shoes with no fear of a dressing down. Maybe even brogues or Derbies rather than Oxfords.

“For a country wedding, there’s more scope to wear separates rather than a full suit,” says Holden. “However, don’t break the boundaries too much. Adhere to a smart jacket and trousers with a shirt and tie. You can incorporate a waistcoat that matches your jacket or trousers for an added element.” Just remember the venue isn’t Toad Hall.

You’ve also got leeway if not quite carte blanche to expand your palette beyond the conservative metropolitan standards of navy and grey. “In terms of colours, opt for warmer, more neutral tones with texture,” continues Holden. Mattified fabrics feel more casual and country-appropriate (and will stand up better to chunkier footwear), as do patterns like checks – not to mention florals.

The Wedding Abroad

It’s contingent on the country in question, but odds are it hasn’t been selected because there’s a high chance of rain. And unless the dress code is Hawaiian shirts, shorts and flip-flops, you’ll need to balance the requisite degree of formality with the risk of heatstroke.

“A linen suit is the perfect option for a hot wedding,” says Holden. That, in turn, conjures images of old-timey southern gentlemen. “A fitted jacket with tapered trousers in grey or blue will keep the look modern. You can also explore cotton suiting to keep you cool.” Don’t discount seersucker, especially in a block colour rather than Colonel Sanders stripes. An unlined jacket will allow air to circulate – and sweat to evaporate.

Your cotton or linen shirt should have a softer collar to match your less structured tailoring. Accessories-wise, nothing overly silky or shiny that will reflect the sun – linen is a good choice for ties and pocket squares too. Finally, loafers are a halfway house between Oxfords and sandals. A wedding isn’t the place to flip-flop, in any sense.

Dress For Success In These 6 Summer Suits

by Scott Puncher | Jun 20, 2019 | Men's Fashion

You should always look and feel your best in a perfectly fitted suit. You may have your staple suit, but when selecting a suit for summertime, think about materials to reflect temperature, fun fabrics to add some fun to the summer months, and a variety of styles.

Whether you’re spending the Summer in Waterloo Region, jetting off to vacation destinations, or heading into the city for some important meetings, you’ll want the perfect designer summer suit. Step into summer with confidence.

The Best Men’s Summer Suits Guide You’ll Ever Read

source: fashionbeans.com

Clocks have gone forward, the mercury is rising, and the sun shone for a whole eight minutes recently, all of which can only mean one thing. No, forget the beach body. It’s time to make sure our suits (not our stomachs) are summer-ready.

Of course, a suit is a year-round essential that transcends time and trends, but that’s not to say when it comes to dressing for inclement spring – and later, sun-soaked summer – months, there aren’t a few smart choices to be had.

From modern and classic styles to brightly coloured and patterned designs, here are the six suits needed to make this season the hottest yet, sartorially speaking.

The Contemporary Suit

A well-fitting, single-breasted, two-button suit with a fuss-free notch lapel and minimal trouser break is the epitome of modern. Is that it? Can we move on? Not quite.

Take advantage of merino wool’s natural temperature regulating properties as a smart way of staying cool and comfortable on balmier days, while keeping the chill at bay on colder ones.

Likewise, a wool in the Super-100 to 130 range is ideal. The S number refers to the fabric’s fineness – the higher the number, the more delicate the material. You won’t bake in the heat, but it’s still heavy enough that you’ll only need a raincoat when the weather turns.

As we begin to transition into high summer, it’s also worth considering 100 per cent cotton (or cotton-linen blend) options for optimal lightness and breathability.

Colour is dictated by where the suit will mostly be worn. Charcoal, grey and navy suits are the safest bets for professional environments. Perfect for moving from office to bar, these refined hues have a timeless appeal that can be livened up with the right tie or kept simple and classic.

The Classic All-Season Suit

Particularly pertinent when the weather is decidedly, well, undecided, spring is the perfect time to invest in a suit that works for all seasons (given that we regularly experience all four in a single day between March and May).

The key to this well-rounded wardrobe weapon is to select a colour, fabric and design that isn’t specific to any season.

Opt for single-breasted, peak or notch lapel design in an all-seasons worsted wool, which provides warmth in the winter and is light and airy in summer. The cut should also be kept classic: tailored but still roomy enough to allow you to move freely and promote air circulation when temperatures rise.

On matters of colour, avoid extremely dark shades such as black that will absorb sunlight, making the suit too hot to wear during the height of summer. Similarly, steer clear of overly light shades, which will look out of place in winter. Hit the sartorial middle ground with a navy or mid-grey in block colours or classic patterns such as pinstripes or checks.

When it comes to styling, a classic suit often needs little more than a solid white, blue or pink shirt, a complementary tie and a pair of brown brogues or black Oxfords or Derbies (depending on the colour of the suit).

The Occasion Suit

For a sleek alternative to sober navy and grey options that’ll serve well for almost any warm-weather event, opt for something in a bolder (or even, softer) shade of blue or a seasonally-appropriate neutral such as beige.

To remain smart but with a cool air of informality, style this suit with a slim-cut shirt, textured tie, printed pocket square and pair of quality loafers or chunky brogues (socks optional).

Equally, to dress it down for a casual wedding or garden party, lose the tie, unbutton the shirt collar (or better yet, try a grandad collar) and pair with clean white sneakers for an outfit that packs an effortless sense of sprezzatura.

The Double-Breasted Suit

Old-school double-breasted suits were once typified by boxy, loose cuts that did little (read: nothing) for a man’s physique. Fortunately, today’s versions are slimmer all over, which when combined with peak lapels that make the chest appear wider, create a flattering ‘V’ body shape.

Thanks to this update, the classic, masculine style is also no longer just for bankers or TV mobsters. The DB – as we call it in the trade – can be found in a range of shades and patterns, from solid navy to grey windowpane check (and what man doesn’t look good in either of those?), which work for a variety of occasions.

The number of styling options has also opened up greatly in recent years. Wear as part of a full shirt and tie look, opt for a louche open neck or go all the way to the other end of the spectrum by using a T-shirt as your base layer.

The Statement Colour Suit

Looking to make a bigger sartorial splash? The spring and summer months are the best in which to experiment with colour, and this season it’s all about earthy tones like camel and bottle green, as well as pastel shades of pink, green and blue.

If going down the statement suit route (providing your build permits) it’s advisable to opt for a skinny to slim cut, which aligns perfectly with this style’s contemporary, youthful feel. Slightly cropped or turned-up trousers also work to further emphasise this fashion-forward approach.

When it comes to material, suits in bright colours tend to look best in lightweight cloths with a bit of texture, such as cotton poplin or linen.

Aside from an air tie or white T-shirt, the main thing to wear this suit with is confidence. It’s important to be honest with oneself and understand that if you’re going to feel awkward donning a cherry red two-piece, you’re more than likely going to look awkward too.

The Patterned Suit

Patterns are a great way of individualising formalwear, with polka dots, botanical motifs and large windowpane checks particularly prominent this season.

Despite being popularised by front row regulars like Tinie Tempah and Harry Styles, you don’t have to be at – or indeed, in – a fashion show in order to pull off this look. Simply make sure the fit is glove-like (any sizing issues will be amplified by a pattern) and style with a neutral colour shirt or T-shirt (black or white works particularly well here) and clean leather sneakers or loafers.

Alternatively, if pattern popping head-to-toe sounds like a step too far, consider suit separates as an easy entry. Combine a printed jacket with a more traditional block-colour trouser for a refreshing, but less risky, update.

Styling Your Suit Like A Boss | Suit Accessories

by Scott Puncher | May 2, 2019 | Men's Fashion

A suit is a versatile item in your wardrobe, giving you a formal option for work, weddings, funerals and other formal events when you need to look your best. If you work in a corporate environment, you probably spend the majority of your time during the week donning a suit.

A custom designed suit or tailored suit will fit you like a glove and give you the confidence you need to run an important meeting, meet with essential stakeholders, give the speech of your life, or walk into any room looking your best.

Once you’ve dressed to impress, suit accessories can take your look to the next level.

Complete Your Look

No suit is complete without the necessary accouterments. Adding accessories can give a classic suit so many different looks and make you stand out.

Ties

The right accessory can make all the difference, and so can the right tie. In fact, Oscar Wilde once said “A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life”.

Layering a designer tie on your suit is the perfect way to complete your outfit. And the best part? You can wear a different tie every day for a refreshing look.

Tip: Tie style doesn’t stop at the tie itself; you can show off your personal style in the knot. Whether you prefer a windsor knot, a half windsor, or a four-in-hand knot, a tie is the perfect finishing touch to any suit.

Pocket Squares

Some call them pocket squares and some call them handkerchiefs. Either way, this is a must-have suit accessory.

Pocket squares are a great suit accessory because they are front and center and add a pop of colour and personality to your suit. You can choose from a variety of colours, patterns and materials to match your date or just rock your favourite colour. Tip: Be sure your pocket square matches your suit and your tie.

It may be called a pocket square but there’s no need to always fold it into quarters. There are endless ways you can fold your pocket square and tuck it into your suit pocket

Cufflinks

Cufflinks are a practical accessory, fastening your sleeve cuff…but they are also an attention-grabbing detail for any well-groomed man. Rather than clutching your sleeve together with a plain button, a cufflink is a functional piece of jewelery that shows you put thought into your outfit, exuding sophistication and style.

Available in a variety of materials and designs, cufflinks are often a source of compliments (especially if they show off your personality). Tip: Pairing cufflinks with a white or neutral shirt will allow you to play with colour and pattern.

This essential accessory also makes a great gift for the well-dressed man in your life!

Belts

A belt is another practical accessory. Wearing a belt doesn’t mean your pants don’t fit. Your custom suit will fit like a glove, and a belt will only help elevate your look. Wearing a belt can help break up the colours of your outfit. If you’re wearing a navy suit, a brown belt will add some refreshing contrast.

Our clothiers can help you find the right accessories. It’s important to think about each accessory you’re adding to your suit and ensure they complement each other (i.e. your shoes and your belt).

Tip: Think about the occasion you’re choosing a belt for. As well as complimenting your suit, you want to pick a belt that fits the event.

Get Accessorized

Let our experts help you find the right accessories. Our Uptown Waterloo Showroom has a variety of colours and styles, making it effortless to pick the perfect complement to your suit.

Visit us today.

How to Spend Your Wedding Day in Uptown Waterloo

by Scott Puncher | Apr 15, 2019 | Men's Fashion

Uptown Waterloo has so much to offer couples. From memorable photo ops, delicious food and drinks, and fantastic local businesses, you don’t have to go very far to find what you’re looking for. Here is a list of ideas leading up to your big day and how to spend your wedding day in Uptown Waterloo.

Before Your Wedding Day

Get Fit To Get Married

Brides, grooms and bridal parties can all find their perfect wedding day attire right in Uptown. There’s a great selection of boutiques to help you find bridal gown and bridesmaid dress, as well as everything else you’ll need – shoes, accessories, makeup and clutches.

For the groom and groomsmen, we can help you bring your personal style to life with a designer suit for your wedding day. We can help suit your wedding party in ready made suite or made to measure suits, plus customize your looks with the best accessories.

We’re your Uptown Waterloo destination for your complete wedding day look. Book a consultation to work with a Paul Puncher clothier and get suited for your wedding day.

Capture Your Engagement

Uptown Waterloo has so many fun spots for an engagement photo shoot session. Many couples use engagement photos to show off their favourite spots to spend time together, their personalities, and of course, their love. Here are some fun ideas for your Uptown Waterloo photoshoot.

Inside your favourite Uptown restaurant or bar
Walking along the train tracks
Strolling through Waterloo Park (there’s a unique photo op with some animals!)
Inside or in front of your favourite building. There are so many great architectural details around.
Skating or playing games in Uptown Waterloo Town Square
Maybe you met in Uptown and want to recreate that moment in the exact location!

Applying For Your Marriage Licence

Waterloo City Hall is just a stone’s throw from our Showroom. You can go there to apply for your marriage licence.

Spend Your Wedding Day in Uptown Waterloo

When your special day finally arrives, you can stay right in Uptown and have everything you need.

Start The Day Off With A Coffee

Your wedding day can go by quickly. Start the day off by taking a moment for yourself and enjoying a coffee. A morning stroll to any of the coffee shops in Uptown Waterloo will give you and your wedding party just the kick-start you need.

Get Dolled Up

Uptown Waterloo has a great selection of salons and beauty experts to get your bridal party ready – hair, makeup and nail salons are close by!

Guest Accommodations

With lots of hotel rooms nearby, your guests won’t have to be far away. Plus local public transit offers many ways to get from point A to point B.

Say ‘I Do’ in Uptown

Whether you’ve dreamed of having your wedding in a church, a traditional venue, or something a little different, you’ll be able to find it in Uptown Waterloo. Or if you’re trying to keep things simple, you can have your civil ceremony at City Hall.

The Perfect Backdrop

Once you’ve finished your vows, head to some iconic Uptown Waterloo locations for a unique backdrop in your wedding photos. For years, you can look back and remember the fun you had capturing your bridal party and wedding photos in front of the Seagram lofts, in Waterloo Park, or Waterloo Town Square.

Make It Your Own

The best part of your Uptown Waterloo wedding day is that there are so many things you can do to really make your day special. All the little things will come together to create a memorable day; feeling amazing in your custom suit, saying cheers to your future in your favourite bar, and spending the day with the most important people.

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